Sitting pretty in fussy clothes, looking like a doll is just not enough

Payal Khandwala is known for her love for rich, traditional weaves and her trademark elements – sharp geometrical cuts and beautiful volumes. This full-time painter’s rendezvous with designing started when she was 16-years-old and had to design an outfit for her farewell party. It was a disaster but for the designer, the only way from there was up. She came into the Indian fashion scene in 2012 when she got an opportunity to showcase her collection at Lakmé Fashion Week. The designer launched her label instinctively and it immediately struck a chord. Four years later, Khandwala is at it again creating magic with her creations.

‘The New Emperor’, her showcase at the ongoing Lakme Fashion Week Winter Festive 2016 is very different from the bridal wears that you usually get to see. Woven meticulously with gold threads to highlight a deep palette of her signature jewel tone colours, the fabrics used in the collection are beautiful. It actually reminds us of vintage imperial clothing. Really apt for the theme ‘Royalty’ where Khandwala’s muse is not content playing princess – she’d rather be king.

We caught up with the designer about her inspiration for this beautiful collection, the idea behind the launch and the Indian celebs she would love to dress up. Excerpts:

The collection is very different from the bridal wears that we usually get to see.
In a land where woman is king – this premise, in a modern day context set the stage for our bridal collection. Our muse as always is strong and she is not content playing princess, she would much rather be king. To me this collection transcends geographical boundaries in its spirit and is inspired by the woman of today. She has a voice, makes decisions, has a career. She is a mother, a caretaker, or all of the above. She battles to be treated as an equal and is charting the future across disciplines, be it politics, sport, business or at home. Sitting pretty in fussy clothes, looking like a doll is just not enough. Our bride has a refined sense of luxury and she will not sacrifice her comfort for it. Our muse, our bride, is not modest. She is king.

The collaboration with Lakmé Salon was a perfect match for the launch of our maiden bridal collection. Lakmé Salon have long been the backstage experts for all of the most prominent and memorable designer labels in the country.  And we felt that their expertly led team would be ideal for maintaining a fine line between our fierce yet feminine looks.

payal-khandwala

Payal Khandwala’s collection at Lakme Fashion Week Winter Festive 2016. (Source: Varinder Chawla)

What is the idea behind launching such a collection?
I think slowly bridal wear is all starting to look the same. I want to give my customers an option that is different from this sea of sameness. Several of our key textiles are hand woven in Benaras and our designs developed with weavers that are part of the ‘Make In India’ initiative. Also, this season we introduced hand embroidery which is minimal and lightweight.

Where did you draw your inspiration from?
Inspiration can come from anything really – art, architecture, music. Last season, it was my daughter’s homework but this season it was more of an idea of this new emperor and a land where woman is king.

Your favourites from the collection and which Bollywood celeb would you like to see it on?
It’s so hard for me to choose because we have several different silhouettes within the collection, but one of my favourites is a men’s sherwani with a brocade lehenga. I think Sonam Kapoor or Deepika Padukone can carry it off really well since both are strong personalities and very stylish.

One Bollywood celeb who you think has an amazing sense of style?
Rekha. She is consistent and confident and has a distinct style of her own.

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By Deekshita Baruah

Source: India Express

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